From Gym to Rock

In my life rock climbing has represented freedom. At a 5th grade birthday party climbing provided freedom from ground locked parents, in high school climbing meant freedom from suburban life and most recently climbing has provided me with the freedom to explore new places.

I am a frequent visitor to the local climbing gym who has dreams of more outdoor adventures. While a back to back viewing of Free Solo and The Dawn Wall on VHS is impressive it wasn’t a multi-pitch trad climb.

Climbing gyms offer the luxury of a clearly defined process to teach new climbers the fundamentals. The challenge with transitioning from the gym to climbing outdoors is there is no clearly defined process. After a coworker organized a climbing trip I was eager to learn how to safely climb outside. I have started my journey into outdoor climbing by experiencing an outdoor rock climb, learning the basic safety systems and applying them on the rock. 

Please note I am just starting my journey into climbing. I am not an expert climber. I felt it would be helpful to share the steps I’ve taking to grow my experience in climbing outdoors.

1. Experience an Outdoor Climb

It’s tempting to start the journey to outdoor climbing at the counter of REI with a rack of gear. Before dropping my REI dividend on gear I spent a day of guided climbing with Mooney Mountain Guides in North Conway’s Cathedral Ledge and White Horse. Here I was able to gain exposure to the fundamental skills of setting up an anchor and lead climbing. Expect to pay ~$350 for a full day of climbing with a personal guide. Bringing friends along will lower the price.

1st guided Multipitch Climb

2. Learn the Outdoor Systems

Next to prepare for my first outdoor lead climb. I attended a “Learn to Lead” class at my gym and practiced setting up anchors at home. These skills are the foundation of outdoor climbing.

I read the following books:

I watched the following video:

I used the following gear while practicing at home

3. Apply the Outdoor Systems

With an understanding of the fundamentals I was ready to test my climbing independence. I spent another day outdoors Mooney Mountain Guides where I lead multiple 5.5 climbs, set up and cleaned anchors.

After following these 3 steps I felt ready to reach out on Mountain Project – Partner Finder to plan a climbing trip with an experienced climber.

2 Replies to “From Gym to Rock”

  1. MOM says:

    Do you remember who’s b-day that was and where?
    I do

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From Gym to Rock

In my life rock climbing has represented freedom. At a 5th grade birthday party climbing provided freedom from nervous parents, in high school climbing meant freedom from my hometown and most recently climbing has provided me with the freedom to explore new places.

I am a frequent visitor to the local climbing gym who dreams of outdoor adventures. Movies like Meru, The Dawn Wall and Free Solo opened my eyes to a new world of climbing where routes are not colored.

Climbing gyms offer the luxury of a clearly defined process to teach new climbers the fundamentals. The challenge with transitioning from the gym to climbing outdoors is there is no clearly defined process. After a coworker organized a guided ice climbing trip I was eager to learn how to safely climb outside. I have started my journey into outdoor climbing by experiencing an outdoor rock climb, learning the basic safety systems and applying them on the rock. 

If you are anything like me you frequently visit the climbing gym and hope to venture into climbing outdoors. While a back to back viewing of Free Solo and The Dawn Wall on VHS is impressive it doesn’t count as a multi-pitch trad climb. (if you stream it instead of VHS does it count as a sport climb?)

The reality is climbing involves risk. Climbing gyms offer the luxury of a clearly defined process to teach new climbers the fundamentals. The challenge with transitioning from the gym to climbing outdoors is there is no clearly defined process. Spending time with Mike Leathem from Mooney Mountain Guides I gained the confidence to independently climb outside. We worked to experience a climb, learn the outdoor systems, and apply the outdoor systems.

1. Experience an Outdoor Climb

It’s tempting to start the journey to outdoor climbing at the counter of REI with a rack of gear. Before spending my REI dividend I spent a day of guided climbing in North Conway’s Cathedral Ledge and White Horse. Here I was able to gain exposure to the fundamental skills of setting up an anchor and lead climbing. For a 1 on 1 day of climbing expect to pay ~$350. If you can find a friend it will bring the cost down a bit, but perhaps reduce the amount of climbing and the amount of 1:1 learning.

Climbing on Cathedral’s Upper Refuse

2. Learn the Basic Outdoor Systems –

Next to prepare for my first outdoor lead climb. I attended a learn how to lead climb class at my gym and practiced setting up anchors at home. These skills are the foundation of outdoor climbing. 

To learn the basics of anchors I watched the following video:

I used the following gear while practicing at home

Carabiners to simulate the bolts: 

https://www.rei.com/product/899069/black-diamond-positron-screwgate-locking-carabiner-package-of-3

2 carabiners to simulate the masterpoint:

https://www.rei.com/product/871109/petzl-attache-3d-screw-lock-carabiner

Sling to practice the magic x and overhand anchor:

https://www.rei.com/product/474003/bluewater-titanspectra-runner-916

Cordelette to practice the quad anchor:

https://www.rei.com/product/118270/bluewater-7mm-x-30-ft-accessory-cord

3. Apply the Outdoor Systems

With an understanding of the fundamentals I was ready to test my climbing independence. I worked with Mooney Mountain Guides for a day of lead climbing on bolts, setting up anchors and cleaning anchors.

There is still lots to learn but after following these 3 steps I felt ready to go out and climb with an experienced partner. You can find climbing partners on Mountain Project – Partner Finder or a local Facebook Climbing Group like Rumney Climbing Partners